JeffCroft.com

05.11.2004 // 141 Comments // Hold ‘Em Poker Table: How-To

The Final Product

A few people responded to my last entry asking for more information on how we built my new Hold ‘Em table, so I thought I’d just post a quick how-to right here on the site. Hopefully it’ll serve a few people well.

Special welcome: A very special welcome to all of you coming from homepokertourney.com. I hope you find the instructions here useful and informative. If you’re not coming from homepokertourney.com, you should definitely find your way over there. The site is chock-full of great tips on running your own home tournaments. It’s an absolute must-read.

Additional note: This article was published in the June/July 2005 isuee of Bluff magazine. Thanks to Bluff for taking interest in my article!

Getting Started: Materials

What follows is a list of the materials I purchased in order to build the table. Many of the items can be substituted with others, but this is what I used:

  • One Sheet (4’x8’) 3/4” Thick Birch Finish-Grade Plywood: For around $40, you can pick up a sheet of this plywood at your local Home Depot or Lowe’s.
  • One 8’ long 1”x2”: This was like three bucks at my local Lowe’s.
  • One 30”x60” Folding Table: I already had this, but they can be had for about $35 at OfficeMax or OfficeDepot.
  • High-density 1/4” or 3/8” Foam Padding: I purchased two sheets of this padding from CasinoSupply.com. In hindsight, I believe the stuff that Patrick got from casinocom.com is of higher quality and easier to work with, since one sheet is large enough to cover the table (you’ll need three yards if you go this route).
  • Poker Cloth: There are a number of options here, from regular Billiard felt to commercial casino cloth. I went with the red velveteen from pokernstuff.com. Patrick chose casinocom.com’s very nice green material with a card suit pattern on it. CasinoSupply.com has a number of nice options at varying prices.
  • Perfect Padding Railing: While there are ways to build your own rail, CasinoSupply.com’s Perfect Padding Railing seemed to be the simplest way to go. For the dimensions of my table, I needed 21 feet of it. The railing is optional, and can be added at a later date if you want to cut costs on the initial table.

Getting Started: Tools and Hardware

I picked up the following from the hardware store:

  • Staples for your staple gun
  • Ten two inch wood screws
  • A box of 100 one inch #8 wood screws
  • String
  • Rubber-specific cement/adhesieve
  • A box of 100 #8 countersunk finish washers
  • A box of 100 3/8 flat washers
  • Duro or 3M Spray Adhesive
  • Medium Grit Sandpaper

We also needed the following tools:

  • Jigsaw
  • Circle Saw
  • A box of 100 one inch #8 wood screws
  • String
  • Pencil
  • Tape Measure
  • Screwdriver
  • Staple Gun (should shoot at least 7/16” staples)
  • Scissors

You should probably also have:

  • Beer
  • Pizza
  • Lots of saved-up insults to toss at the friends that are helping you

Planning

Decide what dimensions you’d like your table to be. I decided on 96”L X 42”W. This seems to be big enough to seat 11 people rather comfortably. A few common sizes are:

  • 96”L x 42”W: A good size for home games. Seats 11, maybe 12.
  • 84”L x 44”W: Another good home game size. Seats nine, maybe 10.
  • 102”L x 44”W: This is the standard size for a “casino-style” table, complete with a spot for a dealer. Seats 11 plus dealer. Note that a regular sheet of plywood is not long enough for this size table.

Break Out the Manly Power Tools

Using the circular saw, rip the plywood to the appripriate width and length. For me, this meant chopping 6” off one side and leaving the length as is.

To create the proper oval shape, you’ll need to do a bit of math. Take the width of the table and divide by two. Mark that distance from each end of the table, in the very center lenthwise. These marks will be the center radius for the arc on each end.

Get some string and a pencil. Sink a nail or screw part way into the marks you’ve just made. Tie a string around the nail or screw, and attach a pencil to the other end such that the pencil is taunt at the end of the plywood. Use this contraption as a large compass to draw a semicircle on each end.

The wood, after cutting

Then, cut along your arcs with a jigsaw. You should end up with a “rounded rectangle” piece of plywood, as seen above.

Attach the Wood to the Folding Table

The 8’ 1”x2” you purchased will be attached to the bottom of the folding table to give a bit more width for us to screw the plywood into. In essence, we’ll be sandwiching the folding table top between the plywood and the 1x2 so we can use a longer screw and not rely on the particleboard folding table to hold the plywood top on. Thus, you need to chop the 1”x2” into a few pieces that can be placed on the bottom of your folding table. Make sure the legs will fold up properly when the pieces are attached. We used five pieces, each about 16” long.

Lay the plywood on the ground, top down, and center the folding table on top of it. Lay in your freshly chopped 1”x2” pieces and attach them using one of the #8 wood screws (one inch long). Then, drill pilot holes for the screws you will use to attach the top to the folding table. We put two holes in each of our five 1”x2” pieces, for a total of 10 holes that go through the 1”x2”, through the folding table, and through the plywood.

The photo below is of the final product, but you can clearly see the construction involved in this step. Note the placement of the 1”x2” pieces.

Overall construction illustration

Flip everying right side up and attach the top to the folding table with the two-inch long screws. Make sure you counter sink the screws a bit so the heads don’t stick up above the table surface.

Upholster the mother

Sand the edges of the table to round them off slightly. You may need to sand down the top of the table a bit, too, particularly where you put screws into it.

Spray a two foot section of the table top with the adhesive spray. Then, unroll a section of the foam padding on this. Read the directions for your spray adhesive. Ours recommended that we spray both surfaces and let it sit a minute or two to get tacky before applying the foam to the table.

Continue applying foam in two foot sections until you have the table covered.

Trim the foam such that you have only a few inches ing over the edges.

The wood, after cutting

You may need to iron your felt/cloth. If so, refer to any instructions that came with it. Also, do not let your friends take pictures of you doing this. Even more importantly, do not let your/wife girlfriend see these pictures.

Jeff irons.

Put your felt/casino cloth on the ground, face down, and flip the table over on top of it. From here, you simply want to pull the cloth as taunt as possible and start stapling it to the underneath of the plywood. This is most certainly a two person job. It’s important to get the cloth as tight as possible. We found that it was easier, at certain points, to flip the table right-side-up and staple from below.

Dustin staples.

You may wish to spray the final product with some Scotchguard.

Attach the rail

The CasinoSupply.com pre-fab rail is pretty simple. It wraps around the table and your only job is to permanently attach it. CasinoSupply suggests using heavy-duty 3/4” staples for this job, but we didn’t have a staple gun that could handle staples that big. Therefore, we decided to use #8 screws, each with a #8 finish washer and 3/8 flat washer attached, to attach the rail. We used quite a lot of these. I’m not sure if this method is better than the staples or not, but it seemed to work pretty well.

The final product.

Perhaps the trickiest part of the rail is the joint where the two ends connect. I used rubber-specific cement to glue them together. There may be a better solution here, but we couldn’t think of it.

Other Ideas

There are a million enhancements you could make to these instructions. A dealer area with chip tray and rake box would be very cool, as would built-in drink holds and/or ash trays. CasinoSupply.com sells a lot of various table hardware that you could use to make your table more creative. Have fun!

Acknowledgements

These instructions are a modified version of those given to us by Patrick Danko. Patrick’s instructions are a modified version of those posted at pcpotato.com/poker. Thanks to both sources!

Please do let me know if these instructions come in handy for you. I’d love to see pictures of your home-built Hold ‘Em tables!

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  1. 001 // Tre Pinyerd // 06.08.2004 // 9:16 AM

    Hey thanks for posting the instructions on building the hold em table…just one question…..how sturdy is this table??? Thanks again!

    Tre

  2. 002 // Jeff Croft // 06.08.2004 // 9:38 AM

    It’s definitley pretty sturdy. Those folding tables are pretty sturdy themselves, and the finish grade birch plywood is the same stuff they make cabinets out of. A couple of people could easily stand on the table — it would hold.

  3. 003 // Tre Pinyerd // 06.08.2004 // 1:50 PM

    Thanks for the quick response after doing more research and checking out the table on http://potatopc.com I just wanted to get your thoughts about the pre fab rail verses building a rail out of another sheet of plywood. Thanks

    Tre

  4. 004 // Jeff Croft // 06.08.2004 // 8:21 PM

    Tre-

    The pre-fab rail is decent, but certainly not spectacular. I do think, if you wanted to go to the greater cost and effort, you could build something nicer with another sheet of plywood. I’ve not done it, but the pictures I’ve seen look very nice. On the other hand, it would probably almost double the cost, and I suspect it would be pretty tickey — at least for someone as un-crafty as me.

    If you’re up for it, go for it! If not, the pre-fab rail will suffice. Just don’t expect to be absolutley wowed by it!

  5. 005 // pete, sterling hgts, mi // 06.16.2004 // 8:44 AM

    i have just finished the raw construction of my 42x96 table. waiting for foam, felt, padded rail and beer can holders to be delivered. my question is… how do you install the can holders into the rail without destroying the vinyl and the padding. the only other option is drilling holes in the plywood with a door knob drill bit and cutting the foam and felt out when installed. appreciate any words of wisdom. my main concern is that the cans may crowd the table and be in the way. feedback welcome and desired.

    pete

  6. 006 // Nick // 06.17.2004 // 9:58 AM

    I am begining construction on my table this weekend and have found your post and other sites very helpful. I also plan on ordering the ‘Velveteen’ cloth from http://pokernstuff.com and was wondering how it’s working out for you. Local fabric shops don’t seem to carry anything suitable for poker tables. What is the feel like and how do the cards slide on it? Any feedback would be appreciated. Thanks and enjoy you table.

  7. 007 // Jeff Croft // 06.18.2004 // 11:23 AM

    Pete-

    Afraid I’m not really sure on the can holders. I didn’t do that. Sorry ZI can’t be of more help.

    Nick-

    I also checked local fabric chops and found nothing useful. The pokernstuff velveteen has been great so far. We’ve only played a handful of games on it thus far, but the feel is very nice and the cards seem to slide on it very well. I highly recommend it, especially for the price!

  8. 008 // Vance // 06.28.2004 // 9:19 PM

    I built one table using these type plans and was satisfied. I decided to build another (84” X 44”), and decided to use some materials that were more economical than the ones furnished by the vendors you mentioned. I used the lifetime folding table from Lowes for $43, 3/4” finished plywood for about $45, 1/4” carpet padding for abut $10, 4-5’ pieces of hard charcoal pipe insulation for railing @ about $2.50 each, and a satin-like poplin material from Walmart or about $12. Believe it or not it turned out much nicer and easier to complete than the one using standard casino components. The railing is really just as nice although probably won’t hold up to extreme abuse. (can be relaced inexpensively even it it does wear down. I think I’ve got about $125 total in it rather than about double using mail order materials. I do have a question though. I would like to construct another with the drink holder railing found on some of the models listed on Ebay. Looked everywhere and can’t find a source. It may be too expensive anyway but it comes standard on the tables that ron about $300 plus freight (I bought one of those also). Great site. If any ideas on the source please let me now. Be happy to email photos if anyone interested. Vance

  9. 009 // dan // 07.01.2004 // 10:51 PM

    Can I use any kind of felt or would u reccomend a certain type of felt

  10. 010 // Patti // 07.03.2004 // 2:38 PM

    Thank God I found your site!!!!! I have looked high and low, been redirected all over the web and found you! I want to build one of these for my husband’s birthay and you will save me a ton of $$$$. Thank you Thank you and Thank you!!! I only hope mine will turn out half as nice as yours appears to be!

  11. 011 // Jeff Croft // 07.04.2004 // 9:53 AM

    Vance-

    I know someone else who used carpet padding and also had good results. Sounds like a good idea! I’m afraid I don’t know much about the drink holder possibilities. Wish I could help!

    Dan-

    I would not recommend regular felt. It tends to shed and get all over your clothes. There are many possibilities for tabletop fabrics — just find something that feels nice and allows the cards to glide smoothly across.

    Patti-

    Glad to be able to help. Good luck with your construction!

  12. 012 // Andrew // 07.04.2004 // 5 PM

    I am building a Hold ‘em table and I plan to use the perfect padded rail. In the picture on http://Casinosupply.com the black plastic bumper molding was also used. Is that needed? Also, do you know of sites that offer reasonably priced poker chips. Thanks a lot.

  13. 013 // Mike // 07.04.2004 // 11:17 PM

    I have to be honest as well and say that I wasn’t too impressed with the perfect padded rail from Casino Supply. At least that’s my opinion. My table is not complete yet. But when I opened the box it came in. I was very disappointed. I also ordered the black plastic bumper molding as well. Not too impressed with it also. The only thing I was happy with was the folding legs and the drink holders. The price of the folding legs was great but I think you might be able to find a better price on the drink holders from an RV supply company. For the chips. EBAY,EBAY,EBAY. You can get a really nice set for around $100. Don’t be fooled into the cheaper sets for around $50. Just my opinion. Does anyone else have any input on how to attach the perfect padded rail. The site says just to staple it from underneath but it seams as if the top will just flop around and almost come off the table if not secured somehow. Ok, enough rambling. Thanks in advance for any info.

  14. 014 // Viny // 07.06.2004 // 1:17 PM

    I’ve finished building a table top that i put on an old table i used the velveteen fabric from ebay this works really well and i highly recommend it for the price i was thinking about buying the padding from casinosupply but decided against it. I bought my plywood from home depot for around $20 and it works really well and the padding from rag shop for $15 if you plan it right and look around before just diving into building the table it can be really nice for very cheap, good luck everyone

  15. 015 // Dan // 07.12.2004 // 2:03 PM

    I was wondering how you did your railing. I also got the perfect padded rail but it slides off the table because it’s only connected on the underside by staples. when people lean on it it just slides down.

  16. 016 // Mark // 07.13.2004 // 7:44 PM

    Great site. I’m starting on my table in a few days. I’m going to use blue canvas for the top. I bought some quilt batting to use for the pad, but I think I might take it back and get some carpet foam. I’m glad I read various comments here about the foam rail from http://casinosupply.com. I was going to get it but it doesn’t sound so great now. Also, the home depot site has folding table legs for $21 a pair, so you don’t have to buy a whole table. Also, is there a cheaper grade of plywood that is flat and dimensionally stable (won’t warp)?

  17. 017 // Jeff Croft // 07.13.2004 // 11:07 PM

    Andrew-

    You shouldn’t need the molded bumper at all. Also, I second Mike’s suggestion of eBay for chips. Some great sets at good prices there.

    Mike and Dan-

    You should be able to see in the pictures above how we did the railing. We didn’t use staples, as recommended. Instead, we screwed it in with some big washers. The “Attach the Rail” section above outlines the process.

    Mark-

    My brother recently built a table and used carpet foam for the padding, and it turned out great! I was hesitant to use it, myself, but when I saw his, I almost wished I had! I’m still relatively satisfied with the perfect padding railing, but it all depends who you ask. For me, it’s good enough, but not great. If you want great, then it’s not for you. The folding table legs are a good idea — I just already had a table, so it seemed easier, plus probably added some more sturdiness to it. I’ve heard of people using MDF for the table surface with good results, and it’s much cheaper — probably $20 per sheet. YOu might give it a shot.

    Let us know how it goes!

  18. 018 // Pete // 07.14.2004 // 4:47 PM

    Has anyone tried to use either hot glue or silicone to “glue” the upper portion of the Perfect Rail to the table top? I have the rail on order and I am considering using one of these to keep the rail from slipping. I was advised to use contact cement to join the ends of the rail. What have others used? Thanks for any info.

  19. 019 // Dennis // 07.15.2004 // 11:33 AM

    Jeff,

    I’m determining how to attach the perfect pad rail. I see you have screwed yours. When you play on it, does the top of the rail move around more than you would like?

    I’m considering glueing the top down but don’t know if that’s the best method.

    No more PPR for me.

  20. 020 // Jeff Croft // 07.15.2004 // 12:41 PM

    Dennis-

    The top of the rail does move around just a bit, but it’s nothing that’s ever bothered me. It would be cool if you found a good way to attach the top of the rail to the table, but I’m not sure it’s absolutely necessary.

  21. 021 // Dennis // 07.15.2004 // 1:14 PM

    Does the top of the rail sit flush on the table top, or is it at a bit of an angle?

    If it’s flush, perhaps putting a 1 inch piece of velco every couple of inches would work. Putting a sticky piece down on the felt, and one on the pad, then slapping them together so you could see neither.

    I’m gonna look into all this tonight.

  22. 022 // Jeff Croft // 07.15.2004 // 1:26 PM

    It sits flush. The velcro idea sounds like a winner to me!

  23. 023 // Hank // 07.15.2004 // 2:48 PM

    Jeff, have you ever tried to apply logos to the felt? Iron on or stickers? Just wondering if you have tried or if you know anyone that tried. If you have tried what did you use that works?

    I am using your guide this weekend to build my own table.

    Thank you for the information.

  24. 024 // The Poker Den // 07.17.2004 // 9:53 PM

    My friends and I just built a poker table. We have reached the obstacle of dressing the padded railing in the vinyl. The vinyl we recieved is 20’ by 18” and we are trying to figure out the best way to attach the vinyl with minimal creases. We are open to any suggestions…

  25. 025 // Robert Kissell // 07.17.2004 // 10:08 PM

    I’ve just completed my table. I used the perfect padded rail too. I purchased vinyl, and cut it into a length approx. 16 inches in diameter. I centered it along the outside of the ‘C’ of the padded rail (the profile of the rail forms a ‘C’. I then folded it all along the INSIDE of the ‘C’. I then placed this up against the edge of the table. With the help of two friends, I stretched the vinyl on the inside part to get out the creases and make it taught. Then I screwed 1 1/2 wood screws through 2 1/2 inch mending plates, through the center of the outer ‘C’, through the inner part of the vinyl and into the table edge. I then pulled the outer portion of the vinyl under and around (to cover over the screws, to the underside of the table. Be careful though, if you’re using a drill to put the screws in, if you have to ‘back one out’, it might ‘snag your material on the table and cause a ‘runner’ (similar to women’s stockings).

    It looks very good, and is extremely sturdy.

    Robert

  26. 026 // Pete // 07.18.2004 // 9:12 AM

    Wish I had listened to those who were not happy with the Perfect Padded Rail. I now have about $95 worth of junk coiled up like a black snake in the back of my truck. Wasn’t at all happy with it after attaching it and tore it off. Will make my own out of a wood frame covered with foam and vinyl.

  27. 027 // Dennis // 07.18.2004 // 10:20 AM

    Robert,

    You have a picture of that?

    Did you buy the perfect padded rail with the intentions to cover it - expense padding. Or did you decide to cover it after you saw it?

    I stapled my PPR yesterday. It looks ok. Next time I will make my own rail.

  28. 028 // Pete // 07.18.2004 // 8:17 PM

    Made a rail today out of 1x6 joined to radiused ends made from plywood and covered with a layer of foam and vinyl wrapped. Cost less than the Perfect Padded rail and looks professional. Black suede material instead of felt with a black rail.

  29. 029 // Andy // 07.18.2004 // 9:17 PM

    Thanks to everyone for all the great ideas! However, I have some questions… First of all, where can I get some 1/4 inch carpet padding? Home Depot? Also, I’m still not sure about which cloth I should use. Of course, poker cloth is the best, but I don’t really want to spend that much. Also, I hear a lot about Velveteen and MDF. What exactly is MDF and where can I get some? Velveteen looks nice but I thought it’s only smooth in one direction (along the direction of the fuzzy stuff). Isn’t it rough if you put your hand in the opposite direction?

  30. 030 // Dennis // 07.19.2004 // 6:50 AM

    Andy,

    I think the Velveteen will be fine. I have it on my table. We have yet to have a poker night on it, but I’ve messed around on it. There is no grain on it - it’s smooth in all directions. Mine was 34 bucks.

    D

  31. 031 // Joe // 07.19.2004 // 9:51 PM

    I used velveteen on my table as well, and it’s great. As for MDF (which I also used), it stands for Medium Density Fibreboard. It’s straight as an arrow, it’s very dense, easy to sand, easy to cut, and it’s 1/2 the cost of plywood. I paid $22 each for two pieces of MDF that was 3/4” thick, and 49”x97”. Good, good stuff.

  32. 032 // grants // 07.29.2004 // 7:29 PM

    hello. i just wanted to give a quick greeting and tell you i enjoyed reading your material.

    grants

  33. 033 // Dan // 07.31.2004 // 2:59 AM

    Thanks for all the info!!! Thanks for sharing all of your great ideas and your time.

  34. 034 // Jake // 08.02.2004 // 9:40 PM

    What would the total cost of the table be?

  35. 035 // Jake // 08.02.2004 // 9:41 PM

    What would the total cost of the table be?

  36. 036 // Krops // 08.04.2004 // 4:24 PM

    Is there any other place to get the padded railing….. cheaper than $3.35 a foot??? (poor college student asking)

  37. 037 // Jeff Croft // 08.04.2004 // 4:37 PM

    Jake-

    I spent around $100, but I already had the folding table. You should be able to get everything, including the table, for under $150.

    KROPS-

    I’ve never heard of another place selling the railing, but I could be wrong. One nice thing about the railing is that it’s not an absolute necessity. You could build your table without it and it’d be perfectly playable — and then you could add the rail whenever you can afford it

  38. 038 // ppr // 08.04.2004 // 9:21 PM

    what is the ppr like? can you give an idea before i buy it and waste 100$? does it smash in when you lean on it? is it cushy? hard? appreciate as much detail as possible as well as your opinion on wether to buy it or not thanks

  39. 039 // Jim // 08.04.2004 // 9:51 PM

    Just wanted to thank you for this website. I am planning on building a table this weekend and this website has given me some good ideas. I was considering buying a table but didnt want to spend from 300-1000 its a little expensive and the fold up poker tops look kinda cheezy. Has anyone else used Medium Density fiberboard and / or carpet padding? Just wondeing how it came out.Also I have billiard table felt that I was going to use. Has anyone used this and how is the play on it? Thanks again

  40. 040 // Jeff Croft // 08.04.2004 // 10:01 PM

    Although i’ve not used them myself, I know of people who have used all three of the materials you mention (MDF, carpet padding, and billiard felt” with very good results. I’d say all three will be just fine.

  41. 041 // George // 08.05.2004 // 12:43 AM

    hi i would also like to know about the padded railing you can purchase from http://casinosupply.com. is it worth it? I made a table top recently and it’s great. however, we did use regular felt and let me tell you, after a few days it gets real bad and forms little red balls. We were planning on covering it with green velveteen later and adding the ppr also. as soon as we can afford that well do it. I would also would like to know where to get a cheap green velveteen with suit pattern as mentioned in the instructions, although at casinocom.com’s website, THEY HAVE NO PICTURES! thank you for the help

  42. 042 // Robert // 08.06.2004 // 2:10 PM

    I built my own table and used the perfect padded rail. I covered it with a vinyl covering, but it was tricky. I had two friends to help. The rail needs to be covered by the vinyl inside and out, then push the rail up against the table edge. Before stapling the outer falp to the underside of the table, lift the flap up and hen use 1 1/2 inch wood screws (through 2” mending plates positioned on the side of the rubber rail) to go through the rail, through the inner fold of the vinyl, and then into the table edge. When that’s completed all the way around the table, then stretch the outer flap of the vinyl down and under and staple it to the underside of the table. This process is best done in sections several feet at a time. It really makes the rail much more secure!!!!

    I did not go with the billiard felt. I used a fabric I bought at Hancock Fabrics. Its not felt, it feels more like a stretchable polyester of some sort. Its dark green. The cards slide beautifully across it.

    Robert

  43. 043 // Brian // 08.06.2004 // 4:54 PM

    George

    Check out this page at casinocom

    http://www.playtables.com/ProfessionalTables/professionaltables.html

    you will see the pattern and also an option to have a custom logo screenprinted ;)

  44. 044 // Keiran // 08.07.2004 // 12:08 PM

    Hey, I’ve been looking around (garage sales and stores) for a folding table but the only thing I could find was a plastic one. It’s good quality but can I use this?

  45. 045 // Jeff Croft // 08.07.2004 // 12:13 PM

    I’m sure you could find a way to make the plastic table work, but make sure the piece of plywood or MDF is very well secured — you may have the attach it in a different way. Also, make sure the table is plenty sturdy — the MDF or plywood is very heavy.

  46. 046 // Josh Messer // 08.11.2004 // 3:55 AM

    Could anyone describe the texture of the suited cloth from casinocom.com? I like the luxurious look and feel of felt, but that suited stuff looks slick in the pictures! I have some “poker speed cloth” from http://CasinoSupply.com and I don’t think I’ll use it, it lacks something and I hope the suited cloth has that extra bit of elegance and class that felt has.

  47. 047 // Casey // 08.11.2004 // 10:57 AM

    I am in the process of building a table from these instructions…all i did was go to a fabric store and bought 100% dark-green wool…doesnt leave little stringy things like felt or billiard felt would…and I bought king-size foam bedding padding…its about a 1/2 inch..costed about $15…and im getting the perfect rail delivered soon..i think its gonna coe around great…m me if u have any questions

  48. 048 // Sean Turner // 08.11.2004 // 6:03 PM

    This is a great site. I’m glad I came across it. It has definately helped me in my quest to build a poker table.

    I’m looking into having a custom logo put in the felt. I think it adds something to the table and the game. Almost like a home field advantage. I’ve tried with a few poor tables and had bad success. I think the most important aspect of building the table is the quality of the actual table. All the bells and whistles mean nothing if the table falls on its face.

  49. 049 // Justin // 08.12.2004 // 1:31 AM

    Can someone please tell me if the Perfect Padded Railing is just an insulating foam sleave for pipe? It really looks that way to me in the pics, and by the sounds of it nobody is very impressed with it when the recveive it. Thanks in advance for any info.

    Thanks for this site…it kicks butt!

  50. 050 // Justin // 08.12.2004 // 3:38 PM

    On casinosuppy.com’s site it says their railing is 2.5” in diameter and 3/4” wall. I just purchased 3 6’ lengths of 2.5” dia. x 1/2” wall for under $20 at a large industrial pluming supply place. It seems just like the stuff http://casinosupply.com sells, only with a slightly thinner wal. It looks identical to the pics of the PPR that I’ve seen here.

  51. 051 // Dave // 08.13.2004 // 12:33 AM

    Justin, It should probably be fine. I’m finding that a lot of the stuff being sold at these online stores are things that can be easily made with some grunt work and a few supplies at the hardware store. I’ve been building a table for about a week now and am very excited. Still waiting on a few supplies I ordered online including chips (can’t play without those).

  52. 052 // andy // 08.13.2004 // 1:28 PM

    Jeff, this site is great. I thank everyone for the info, and keep it coming I start building this weekend!…..seven duce off suit baby!!

  53. 053 // andy // 08.13.2004 // 1:28 PM

    Jeff, this site is great. I thank everyone for the info, and keep it coming I start building this weekend!…..seven duce off suit baby!!

  54. 054 // werty // 08.13.2004 // 1:54 PM

    Sweet info, I was actually trying to build my own table. This will help!

  55. 055 // Steve // 08.14.2004 // 8:21 PM

    Hey Jeff, Great site. I am using your directions to build a table of my own. The wood is cut and protected, now just waiting on the padding and velveteen. I have two questions. Since you ordered two sheets of padding, how do you make the seam less irritating to deal with? Also, have you heard of how someone could add a decal or something to the fabric? Any input would be greatly appreciated.

  56. 056 // Stefano // 08.16.2004 // 12:14 PM

    Hello from north of the 49th.

    I like your table very much - thanks for having this forum. I’ve attempted to order the padded rail system from Casinosupply and things were humming along very well until I realized that they wanted to charge me $114 US$ to ship the thing to the GWH (Great White North). Holy freak’n eh? The cost of the rail is about $75 US$ - that’s about $95 CDN. Shipping would be an extra 200%. I couldn’t believe it eh. So I emailed them and they said, “Sorry but we only ship international orders using Worldwide Express Service…..” and that, “…..we loose a lot of international orders because of it.”

    Canadians beware of http://Casinosupply.com

  57. 057 // Noah // 08.18.2004 // 10:13 AM

    I am building a table out of an 8’ conference table i got for free from an office move. i have a few questions for everyone out there, is the best way to attach the padding with 3m spray mount? also which type of felt is recomended?

    and if anyone has ANY EXTRA FELT/ PLAYING SURFACE AND IS WILLING TO SELL IT PLEASE email me noahigoodman@yahoo.com

    thanks

  58. 058 // Carol // 08.19.2004 // 7:14 PM

    I will concur to be very skeptical about http://CasinoSupply.com in Canada. Doing some research I found that they have a lot of complaints.

    I’m not very handy but trying to build and have a table built for my fiance’ as a wedding gift. He’s an avide poker player with friends and just bought some chips from pokernstuff or something like that. He loves it. Problem is that when he has poker games, they are usually stuck playing at our kitchen table.

    Info on this site has been great and has me very excited. If I can build a table half as good as the ones I’ve seen here, he’ll be very happy.

  59. 059 // Joe Fry // 08.20.2004 // 10:51 AM

    Here is a way to build the table with cup holders in build into the table (Greg Sorenson’s table). There are no instructions but the pictures are pretty descriptive! I built one like this and its great! Great Forum!

    http://www.homepokertourney.com/tables_build.htm

  60. 060 // enzomatic // 08.24.2004 // 9:52 AM

    Great info. I want to build one of these, but the problem is I have no space left in my rec room for it. So, I have a 8’x4’ billiards table. Any thoughts on building something to fit on top of it?

  61. 061 // Kevin // 08.27.2004 // 12:08 PM

    this is for pete who asked how you would install the cup holders into the rail without hurting the vinyl and padding. ive just finished with my second table and the first one had cup holders in the rail. the way i did it, and the way i think it should be done, is to cut the holes like you said with either a rotosaw or one of those doorknob bits, cover the thing like the holes werent even there, and when you are ready to put in the holders, just cut gently an x shape right above the cup holder hole through the vinyl and the padding. basically, youre going to jam the cup holder into the hole. its gonna be a tight fit but they arent coming out. of course you could always go for the beer rail instead of the holders like im doing on my current table. just put down a border of good looking paneling between the felt and the padded rail. hope that helps.

  62. 062 // Jim // 08.30.2004 // 11:11 AM

    Good site with easy to follow directions. I also have the perfect padded rail and would recommend making your own if you want it to be professional looking. What I though when I first opened the box that came from casinosupply was that I was looking at plumbing conduit. I still think that even though I got it to work out OK on my table, but I must admit that it’s not the same look or thickness as they show on their blackjack table on the site.

    On another note, I found some very inexpensive closed cell padding at my local pool supply store. It’s used to pad the bottom of above ground pools and is called “happy bottom”, the roll is 54 inches wide and it cost 96 cents a linear foot, pretty darn cheap compared to other places I shopped, and is most likely available in about any good sized town at the local pool dealer.

    And for top fabric, I don’t know about you but I have a bunch of spill happy guys who come to my house for games. I found a leather type material called Whisper Vinyl at Hancock Fabrics which I covered my entire table with and it’s working out great. No scotch guard needed, and wipes clean with a wet cloth. I used Armor all to slick it up and the guys are really impressed. Cheaper than the cost of good fabric too, and easy to stretch tight over the table frame.

    Thanks again for the good info, great job; Jim

  63. 063 // Jeff // 09.01.2004 // 10:28 PM

    I just wanted to add a suggestion to anyone building these tables…. I used a burgandy Vinyl top instead of the felt, and it seems to be working perfect. The cards slide very very good on it and it is very easy to clean (just wipe and go)…

    hope this helps in any way….., Jeff

  64. 064 // tom // 09.08.2004 // 7:07 PM

    I bought my supplies yesterday and just started building my table tonight. Wish I had seen your page first, I didn’t even think about carpet padding, instead I’ll be using 1/2” quilt padding three layers high for the table. For the top I got some thin rubber-backed canvas from Hancock Fabrics. I’ll use the Armor All idea too thanks. I also bought black vinyl for arm-rests and will be using the carpet padding (doubled up) for that. A sheet of 3/4” plywood for table and a sheet of 3/4” pressboard for the railing (3.5 in wide) for about $40 combined. Already had an old 8 ft folding table I took the hardware off. Total cost will be $120. Thanks again for putting this page up (just wish I had seen it yesterday.

    Tom

  65. 065 // Tim // 09.10.2004 // 2:28 PM

    Can somebody bring me some new pants, i pooped the ones i was wearing.

  66. 066 // Bob // 09.12.2004 // 6:11 PM

    Just wrapped up construction on my own Texas Hold ‘Em table. A little “what not to do advice” - DO NOT use 3/4” particle board for your table base. I tried using this and it was so floppy after being cut down I had to screw it to 2x2”s for support. Then my folding table leg screws ripped right out of it leaving craters in the wood. I had to Liquid Nail and screw some plywood to the bottom of the table to fix that problem. Now with the 2x2 additions and plywood, the table weighs more than it would have had I just gone with Jeff’s plans above.

    Partical board - even at only $14.00 per sheet, it’s still not your friend. I don’t suspect I would have had these problem if I would have used MDF at only $6.00 more per sheet.

    On another note, I’ve read of a few people trying quilt batting for their pad/foam - bad idea. I have this on a blackjack table I built about a year ago. All of the foam has settled; may as well be playing right on the wood now. The next time I try a table, I’m going to give the carpet padding a shot. I bet if I walked into a carpet place and asked them for a 4x8’ piece of carpet pad they’d almost give it to me for free…that’s pretty much scrap in their business.

    So, there you have my two cents…take it for what it’s worth.

  67. 067 // Wes Dalrymple // 09.13.2004 // 11:46 AM

    I started work on my table Saturday and got quite a bit done over the course of the weekend. Here are my suggestions to add to the list.

    I went with a 3/4 inch sheet of MDF (Medium Density Fiberboard) for the base. I would not reccomend this because of the weight. I was going for a table I could fold up and put out of the way when not in use, but I can’t carry this table without help. Next time, I will use 3/4 inch plywood.

    I found some replacement banquet table legs at Lowes. I wanted some legs that would fold up so I can store it. In hindsight, I would have done the same thing other people did and just attach the table I made to a pre-fab banquet table. The MDF did not hold the wood screws I used very well so I ended up bolting them to the table and it was difficult lining them up perfectly.

    I did not cover the entire table in felt. I cut out an insert and covered it. I left the outside edge (about 8 inches) the birch plywood that I used as the top. I’m going to install some drop-in cupholders and a couple of ashtrays in it after I stain it. I saw the cupholders on http://casinosupply.com but I am going to try and find some locally. I want this ready by Wednesday nights game.

    I used headliner material as the cushioning for the playing surface. I then covered it in felt material I bought from a local fabric store. I was really pleased at the outcome.

    I’m not sure what to do about the railing. The perfect padded rail from casino supply looks good, but I’m just not sure about how well it will work. It is also pretty pricey.

    As soon as I get some pics up, I’ll let you know here. Thanks for the website. It has been a lot of help.

  68. 068 // jerry // 09.13.2004 // 6:43 PM

    I’m looking to make a table topper that is roughly like these table your talking about. But I have run into a problem how do I put the hinges so that the playing surface is still smooth? I have lost my mind trying to figure this one out. Please email me with any suggestions. I the table has to fold inward to protect the padded edges and felt. If it folds out then the felt won’t be smooth. PLEASE, PLEASE, PLEASE HELP!! Thank you for the site it has been most helpful.

  69. 069 // Jeff Kondra // 09.21.2004 // 2:09 PM

    Thanks for the great site. I just bought my table fabric from Hancock. The lady showed me a suede type material that looks and feels $$$ but only $7 yd. Very slick surface for the cards. I am also going to use carpet padding for the table as well as the rails. After the negative comments about the padded rail I am going to build it on my own. Should not be too hard, just wrap the vinyl around the carpet padding and use some carriage bolts to attach it to the table. I may use the slide in beer (Heineken) holders instead of placing them in the table. How can we post some pictures to your site of our own table and what we did along the way???

    thanks

  70. 070 // Jamie // 09.22.2004 // 12:42 AM

    I don’t think that you’ll get very good results from trying to create a folding table top, but there are some options. Either you need to use a metal hinge or you use the top fabric itself as a hinge which will wear out much sooner than later. If you go with a metal hinge, use a piano hinge and use a router to set the hinge into the table top so that it is flush. Then attach the fabric on top of it.

    —jamie

  71. 071 // Jeff Kondra // 09.24.2004 // 10:33 AM

    Comment on the folding table:

    Go ahead and attach your hinges to the center of the table. Place your carpet padding over the entire table and then cut out the minimum amount of padding around the hinges to make it flush with the carpet padding. Then cover your table with your felt, vevlet etc. and staple as you would a non-folding table. Then fold away. If you pull the fabric tight enough, you may even consider leaving about a half inch or so open or cut out of the padding across the width of the table. This way when you fold up your table the two pieces wont squish against each other. Hope this helps…

    On a side note, I have finished my cutout of the MDF board, SHIT IS THAT STUFF HEAVY!! And have also cut out my 5” track to construct my own padded railing. I am going to place my cupholders inside of my padded arm rail.. I will post (or send them to Jeff since I have no idea how to build a website) of all of my construction. Not to brag, but I am doing something that I have yet to see on any of the tables. You will see it soon.

    Anyone live near Memphis for a poker game????

  72. 072 // Dan // 09.24.2004 // 8:54 PM

    Just found this site tonight. Great info here. I built a table a few months back. I used “Gold” carpet pad from Menards. Little more expensive but it is waterproof and beer won’t soak up in it like the regular carpet pad. Also, for the folding table legs. I did a LOT of research to find solid folding table legs for a reasonable price and I will let everyone here know where to get them. It is a company called EBCO. The # is 1-800-466-3608 and the part # is VS-31. They are 36.99 and I believe that was including shipping and they make the table very sturdy. I’m sure they have a website where you can look at them but I’m telling you they sell for twice that at every other place I found them. Great Website!

  73. 073 // Chad // 09.26.2004 // 11:07 PM

    DO you have other pictures of the table more detailed? I have read the feedback on the perfect padding and wanted something that looked nice.. i wanted to see what it looked like? Thanks Chad

  74. 074 // jeff Kondra // 09.30.2004 // 10:19 PM

    I have about 5 hours into my first table and it is starting to feel like a poker table. Tonight I cut out my carpet padding for the table and also for the railing. I am going to install the beer holders(bought them at Bass Pro Shop for $3) directly into the rail. Use a 3” hole saw and cut through the table. Use a knife to cut out the padding and when it comes to the vinyl, make a small X in the top and then push the beer holder down. I will send pics later when all is complete. Think about 4-5 more hours left, lots of stapeling to do next.

    Thanks for the great site, sure has helped me out…..

  75. 075 // jeff Kondra // 10.03.2004 // 1:13 PM

    Just finished my table. I used the suede type table top only because of the color.

    DO NOT USE SCOTCHGUARD ON THIS MATERIAL. TURNED SOMEWHAT TACKY, AND NOW THE CARDS DONT SLIDE LIKE THEY SHOULD….. OH, WELL.

    at least when a spill happens it will be easy to clean up. thanks to all of you for your tidbits of info to help me finish my table. I am going to start table number 2 soon. 20 person capacity for the tourneys, $60 buy in at my house. Makes for some nice pots!!!!

    thanks again.

    If you would like to see some pics, email me and I will send them to you, ckondra@midsouth.rr.com

  76. 076 // Jason Armstrong // 10.04.2004 // 11:39 AM

    I recently built two poker tables similar to yours, however, I made racetrack tables that were rectangular with curved corners, and I constructed my own rail with plywood and foam from JoAnn Fabrics. The foam was pretty expensive, but after I wrapped it with vinyl and stapled it down, it turned out very nice. The construction of the rail turned out to be quite a task. I cut the vinyl in four pieces, two straight and two curved. With some help from my wife, we sewed the pieces together and stapled it to the bottom-inside of the rail that I cut from 3/4” OSB. Then I screwed the rail to the table, and tightly wrapped the vinyl around the foam and stapled it underneath the table top. It was very difficult getting the kinks out of the vinyl so it didn’t look wrinkled, but with alot of patience and sore fingers it worked out nicely. I planned on buying the perfect padded rail from casinosupply because of the difficulty in constructing my own rail, but now I don’t think I will because of all of the bad comments on your site. I also read somewhere that the padded rail from casino supply smells really bad of rubber. Is this true? I have seen a couple tables that used those foam “noodles” that are used as swimming pool toys for the rail. They were cut in half, glued to the table with contact adhesive, I believe, and then covered with vinyl. If you like the look of the “perfect padded rail,” you can buy foam or rubber pipe insulation from a plumbing supply shop that is cheaper. I don’t know what I’ll do for a rail yet on my second table, but if I figure out something new I’ll let everyone know. I would like to put some kind of graphics on my velveteen playing surface, but I am worried that it will wear off and look like crap after a while. I read on someone’s website that you can airbrush graphics onto the velveteen, but I haven’t read any comments on how well this works. Have you heard anything about putting graphics on the playing surface?

  77. 077 // jeff Kondra // 10.05.2004 // 9:35 AM

    Have you heard anything about putting graphics on the playing surface?

    I had my table top embroidered at a local t-shirt shop. Looks really nice. I did it along the sides of the table so the cards would not flip over when they hit it. I plan to load up some pics but send me an email and i will shoot them over to you for you to take a look at.

    I used carpet padding for my rails, turned out pretty nice.

    ckondra@midsouth.rr.com

  78. 078 // studnothin // 10.06.2004 // 10:36 PM

    hi, i have a pretty basic question to ask, and its about the measurments when purchasing the 1/4” thick volara close cell foam from http://foambymail.com. i’m confused about how much, and in what dimensions the volara comes in. the measurments that are listed on your site are “Volara(R) - 1/4” x 60” x lineal foot”, but the problem is i don’t know how to translate that into what i need, so i don’t know how many quantities i should ask for. basically what i’m looking for is one solid sheet that measures roughly 54”x108”.

    again, sorry for the inconvenience, i’m just very unfamiliar with this process. thanks again.

  79. 079 // Jason Armstrong // 10.10.2004 // 6:09 PM

    Just call the people at foam by mail . They will give you almost any size that you need. This way you wont be left with a bunch of extra foam.

  80. 080 // Bob S // 10.10.2004 // 11:19 PM

    There is actually a place that is cheaper than http://foambymail.com, they are called Foam N’ More Inc. http://www.foamandupholstery.com/ They are only $3.75 per foot and you need 1/4”x60”x9’ Hope this helps.

  81. 081 // VH // 10.11.2004 // 5:05 PM

    Someone is selling your plans on ebay

    http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=35749&item=6123623319&rd=1&ssPageName=WDVW

  82. 082 // studnothin // 10.13.2004 // 2:45 AM

    thanks, that helps out a ton guys! however, i did try that http://www.foamandupholstery.com/ and for some reason i can’t order anything from them. i click the email link which is the onlyl way you can proceed with an order over there, and i get a dead page.

  83. 083 // studnothin // 10.17.2004 // 12:40 AM

    sorry guys, i have just one more question. i’ve been a little confused about this part for awhile and i was hoping that one of you might be able to shed some light on it. should i use the adheasive spray to glue the material (ie velveteen, felt, etc.) onto my table top or should i just pull it tought and staple it down? the reason i ask is because i’ve seen it down both ways, and i’m not sure which works best, although i can see more sense in just pulling stapling it down in case i ever need to replace the fabric i won’t be wasting expensive foam. thanks again!

  84. 084 // Ross // 10.20.2004 // 6:37 PM

    I see alot of questions about drink holders. When i built my table I had a hard time finding anything. But wondering through Wal Mart I found pencil/pen holders in their office supply area, they worked great. They were black metal, the metal is airated (not sure if that helps explain it), but they fit cans and bottles and is about 4” deep, which wont allow you to tip. And with the holes in the metal it wont hold moisture. Hope this helps.

  85. 085 // cougarpaw22 // 10.25.2004 // 5:18 PM

    i’m going to make my railing out of foam pipe insulation covered by rubber insulation. I tried it out on a table at lowes, and it was pretty nice, what do you guys think about this?

  86. 086 // Erik // 10.27.2004 // 12:53 AM

    Great site! thought I’d throw out that you can buy drink holders at http://www.smackdogg.com They are also available on ebay from this company. (I have no personal experience with this company however). Cheers!

  87. 087 // Stephen // 11.02.2004 // 5:14 AM

    I finally found poker chip trays for my table. They were easy to install, and are great with fantasy poker where more chips are used. http://www.casinosupply.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=PCT

  88. 088 // Brian // 11.03.2004 // 6:52 PM

    I recently built a table and here’s how I did the rail. I bought those foam pool noodles and cut them in half longways. That’s actually the hardest part. I did the table in 4 segments. The two end pieces and then both sides. This keeps the vinyl from bunching too much. Lay the vinyl on the table and then lay the fun noodle on top of it curving the noodle to match the table. Screw the noodle to the table. Pull the vinyl tightly over the noodle (don’t worry it’s not going anywhere) and the nail or screw the vinyl underneath the table. I was quite pleased w/ the results.

  89. 089 // steve // 11.11.2004 // 1:57 AM

    You can order foam for both the padded rail and under the table top from http://efoamstore.com. They custom make this to your size and firmness needed as per your instructions and use. Takes a little while since it is custom made.The web site says 10 to 15 working days but I got mine in less than 2 weeks time.Price is not too bad and can be calculated on thier site.

    Happy building!!

    Steve M

  90. 090 // Tom Canty // 11.15.2004 // 6:36 AM

    Built mine last week and played on Saturday, and am very happy with it. Some tips (pardon the length):

    1. Build it with someone - this is critical for getting the fabric nice and tight when stapling.
    2. I used a 6’x3’ folding table and put 5/8” plywood on top (8’x4’ cut down to 8’x3.5’). This was exactly the right size & thickness to use to balance weight & strength. It easily fits 8 players, and could do 10 (without a dealer) if needed. Attach with screws every 4 inches or so all the way around the edge of the folding table to make it nice and flat. A friend built his by just attaching legs directly to a thicker piece of oak laminate, and I can see some curve to it (although it’s lighter and is plenty strong).
    3. When you draw the curves on each end, be sure to cut just outside the line and then use a belt-sander (preferably) to sand down to the line. If you cut inside the line and make a mistake, it’s hard to fix. When sanding, you want everything even but you don’t have to make it perfectly smooth if you wrap the foam around it. Just go once around the top & bottom edge so that nothing tears on it when you stretch fabric & foam over it.
    4. For foam padding, I used “happy bottom” from Leslie Pool supply. Closed cell (so waterproof) and cheap (
  91. 091 // Tom Canty // 11.15.2004 // 6:44 AM

    My post got chopped. I’ll try to summarize the other things: Use closed cell foam - open cell is not waterproof (for spilled drinks). Wrap your foam around the edges of the table. If you don’t, your chips will fall over when you lean on the table. Have your friend pull down & outward while you staple through the foam and fabric, as far inside as possible (don’t staple near the edge). Don’t use velveteen or faux-suede - cards don’t slide. Just find the shortest “nap” synthetic velvet you can, and the cards will fly across it. Perfect Padded Railing from http://casinosupply.com sucks, especially if you try to wrap it in vinyl (which is practically mandatory since leaning on rubber gets annoying fast). But there aren’t any easy & cheap alternatives - go with either no rail or the “real deal” and built one from wood wrapped in vinyl with padding.

  92. 092 // patty // 11.28.2004 // 8:32 AM

    Jeff would you happen to have a texas holem table for sale?…..do you live anywhere near the bay area?…we are in Livermore….it can be a used one…and all we need is the table top, as it is going to go on our dining room table….thanks for your time….plh

  93. 093 // Matt Sheehan // 11.28.2004 // 9:11 PM

    Can you E-mail me some good prices on the felt, so I don’t pay too much. Can it be bought buy the roll and if you could give me some pricing that would be great. I am looking to make alot of tables and was in need of some good felt. I have been making them with just laminated tops and they look great, but for some reason guys would like ones with felt. From some of the post i have read and what i have heard from other people the felt will not last. Poker tables get alot of use these days with it being so hot and i’m affraid if i sell them with felt that people would come complaining back to me.

    If you give me some pricing on rolls of felt. that would be great and if you have any imput to what I said I would like to here it.

    Thanks for your time.

    Matt Sheehan

  94. 094 // drew // 11.30.2004 // 5:05 PM

    table looks great. I’m thinking about building a table. Can you send me some instructions on attaching the folding legs to a piece of plywood, which attaches to the table. And instructions for attaching the folding legs to the poker table. Thank you.

  95. 095 // shan // 12.03.2004 // 9:55 AM

    One thing i found to work for the rail to be pretty good are those pool noodles that kids use for the pool. You cut them in half and just stick it to the table and secure them down with nails. They are pretty thick and very durable since it is foam. After putting them on we put covered them with vinyl and bam no cheap rails at all

  96. 096 // Trish // 12.07.2004 // 5:59 AM

    A couple of words of advice on fabric for your table: It doesn’t have to be “poker table fabric”, but if you are buying from a fabric store do NOT use any type of felt whether wool or synthetic. This material type is non-woven and WILL pill horribly in a short time. Instead use a short-nap fabric with directionless nap (no “grain” to the fabric). If you want to use scotchguard on your fabric, apply it AFTER mounting the fabric to the table, and use EXTREMELY light coats of spray—I reccommend 2 applications. Allow to dry for 24hrs between coats. Stickyness results from too much spray on the fabric. An easier way to make fabric BOTH stain AND sag-resistant is to wash the fabric before cutting or mounting in a mesh laundry bag (cold/cold, 1/2 usual soap amt), and dry it on low heat with a handful of dryer sheets. This stabilizes the fabric, and dryer sheets work by using a sort of waxy coating to repel static, which will also give some stain and spill resistance. (over time, fabric will stretch and have to be re-stapled—this makes the time ‘til restapling longer)

    Will continue post to give options on how to apply graphics.

  97. 097 // Trish // 12.07.2004 // 6:53 AM

    OK, part two: Graphics!

    So you want a betting line, or dealer’s area marked on your felt, but don’t know how? Here goes:

    Option 1, get it done by a pro—that means either get your fabric embroidered, screen-printed, or airbrushed by someone who does this for a living. Benefits: Looks great, can be personalized, and if the guy botches it, he fixes it. Drawbacks: Can be VERY pricey, can take a while to be finished, some companies will not assume the risk of damaging goods they did not sell you and won’t warrantee their work.

    Option 2: Buy pre-printed poker table felt from a professional supplier. Benefits: Looks great, is the “real deal”, usually has a warranty. Drawbacks: Hey, I thought we were doing this ourselves to SAVE money!!! Very pricey.

    Option 3: Do it yourself, of course! Benefits: You get exactly what you want, where you want it—even in full color if you like! Drawbacks: Not all of us are decent artists, and sometimes we goof. ‘Nuff said.

    OK, so you want to do it yourself? There are a lot of ways to do this, some are trickier than others, and all of them require some dexterity and artistic/mechanical skill to get it perfect. The VERY FIRST thing you MUST know is the fiber content of your fabric! Some paints will ruin some fabrics beyond repair, so you must have compatable chemistry here. MOST fibers will accept acrylic-based paints well, although some synthetics will not, and the paint will bead up on them like water on wax. ALWAYS TEST ON A SCRAP!! All the methods below use acrylic-based paints, although some methods will work with oil-based paints as well.

    Method 1: Plastic templates Lay out your idea on paper, to exact scale until you like what you see, whether it is a simple betting line, or whatever. Go to Kinko’s, and get it blown up, or transfer it yourself to actual-size on paper. Now, carefully trace this pattern onto heavyweight acetate sheets with a fine tip dry erase marker. Heavyweight acetate is the same stuff as overhead projector sheets, which can be bought at any office supply or educational supply store, sometimes for really cheap. Otherwise, use thin cardboard, like the kind that comes in dress shirt packages, although that is harder to use as it isn’t transparent. Now, carefully cut out your templates with an exacto knife, so that the pieces you cut away are the places where paint will be going on your felt/fabric. Did you wash your fabric? You should, as you will get better results with your paint if the manufacturer’s sizing is washed out first. Now there are some choices. On the one hand, you can paint before you mount, although there is a risk of the paint cracking if the paint consistency wasn’t just right when you applied it. On the other hand, you can paint after you mount, but it can take longer to dry, especially if you used too much paint or the consistency wasn’t just right, or you are using an open-celled foam or other porous material for padding (which can cause the paint to bleed under the fabric if it is too thin in consistency or applied too thickly). Ok, now that you have decided, the method is pretty much the same.

    Continued next post

  98. 098 // Trish // 12.07.2004 // 8:06 AM

    Graphics, continued

    Ok, now is the time to make sure that you wiped the dry-erase marker completely off your templates, as they can bleed into your paint. (yes, I know we cut out the templates already, but I know I always end up with random marks on them somehow). If you are doing this before mounting your fabric, you will need a lot of space to lay out your fabric where it won’t be disturbed from the time you paint to the time it is all dry again, with something smooth underneath to protect your floor/table from accidental paint bleeds through the fabric. Lay out your templates on the fabric. TAKE YOUR TIME!! After the painting starts, it’s too late if you made a mistake. You will be using artist’s acrylic paint or acrylic-based fabric paint (T-shirt paint, not the puff kind), NOT WALL OR HOUSE PAINT. This can be obtained at walmart, kmart, and other discount variety stores, as well as in artist supply shops. Liquitex makes a decent paint, and is relatively inexpensive (~$3-$4 for a big tube). A little will go a long way, so if you are using white to make a plain betting line, one tube will be enough. You will need a pallette of some sort, a clean lid from a 5gal plastic bucket is fine, or a spare sheet of that acetate you used for the templates. DO NOT REST THE PALLETTE ON YOUR FABRIC—sometimes paint has a tendency to wander where it isn’t wanted! You will need a fairly stiff paintbrush to apply the paint with—check the bargain artist brushes bin at Michaels (~$1-$2), or use the type of paintbrush meant for doing wall stencils which can be found at Lowes and Home Depot (~$2-$10). Walmart carries the right kind of brushes also, but is sometimes hard to locate in the aisles. Ok, here we go! To hold down the templates, either use heavy weights on the template edges, or pin or tape them in place. We don’t want them to move while we paint, or the edges of your design will be blurry or smudged. Squeeze out a blob of paint about the size of a quarter onto the pallette. Using the tips of the bristles on the brush, dab up a small amount of paint. You should be holding the brush almost straight up and down, with the bristles down. Now, using a tapping motion, you are going to dab most of the paint on the brush off ONTO THE PALLETTE. You don’t want to paint fabric like painting a wall, we are going to dab it into the fibers so it doesn’t end up as a shiny spot on your fabric. So, with that in mind, place your off hand on the first template, close to but not on, the edges of your design. This is to keep the template firmly on the fabric as a barrier, so the paint only goes where you want it to. Now, using that same tapping motion with the brush up and down to the surface, begin tapping your paint gently but firmly into your design. Don’t worry if it looks too light, as you will go over it several times until it looks as opaque as you want.

    RESIST THE URGE TO USE MORE PAINT ON THE BRUSH!! All that will do is cause paint to creep under the edges of your template, and spoil all that work you did!

    If you get paint under a template by accident, carefully remove the template right away and clean it with water completely. On the fabric, SOMETIMES it is possible to scrape the misplaced paint off the fabric with a sharp knife, and dab any shadows away with a damp cloth rag before it dries. If this happens, you will have to decide if you want to take the chance of making it worse, or leaving it alone. In either case, allow the already-applied paint to dry before you try to put the template back on that area, or it WILL get worse, as I know I have never been able to perfectly align a template over wet paint without smudging!

    When your design looks the way you want, stop. Carefully remove your templates, and allow the paint to dry overnight before you check it for dryness. To check for dryness, wash and dry your hands, then lightly press a finger into the center of a wide solid color part of your design. If it feels cold, damp, or paint comes off, it isn’t dry yet! If paint came off on your finger, touch it up very carefully, and let the whole thing dry some more.

    I think you know what to do with it once it is dry!

    This, in my opinion, is the best method to achieve professional-looking results. Acrylic paint wil not run once it is completely dry if it gets wet, and applying it in small increments as we did above gives it a nicer finish than painting heavy stripes on that will crack and cause cards to flip over. The other 2 methods I will describe do not give as satisfactory a result, but they are easier to do. They also are easier to mess up with while applying, so be warned about that.

    Continued next post

  99. 099 // Trish // 12.07.2004 // 9:33 AM

    Graphics, continued

    Alrighty, you are still reading, so I guess that sounded like a lot of work, huh?

    OK, there are other ways to get graphics on the table, but they are more difficult, or require a steadier hand and more artistic talent. But here are some more methods for consideration.

    Method 2: Direct drawing

    OK, so you can draw a straight line, and don’t want to fuss with templates. OK, no problem. After mounting your fabric on the table, use a pencil to mark where you want your design, and outline it. Using acrylic artist’s paint and a medium stiff brush, paint it in. Let it dry overnight and check for dryness. When it looks the way you want, and is dry, you are done.

    Sounds oh so simple, huh? Well, if you can do it, it is. Just remember not to get gloppy with the paint, as it can crack when dry, or cause a hump that flips cards. Artist’s acrylics have more flex to them when dry than other paints, so there is some leeway, but it can still crack, so be cautious. You can always go back over it with more if you need to.

    Method 3: Airbrushing over templates

    OK, if you have and can use an airbrush, make templates as in method 1, and airbrush with acrylic paint, thinned with water or flowgel to a consistency that doesn’t choke the airbrush. Use thin layers, as paint creep under the templates occurs more easily when you are using a thinner medium. Takes longer to get opaque color onto the fabric without creep or bleed issues. Does produce a very even, screen-printed look. Overspray can be an issue, as this is a large piece of fabric.

    Method 4: Screen printing

    Speedball makes a home screen printing kit that can be used to make your design. It will take a number of screens, as this is a large piece of fabric. Takes practice to make clean prints. A separate screen is required for each different color and/or pattern. Moderately expensive, but produces professional results. Use acrylic artist’s paint. It can be very difficult to line up each additional screen, especially if you are just doing a betting line. Most suitable for designs that are 8 1/2” X 11” or less in size.

    Method 5: Design transfer

    There are two ways to do design transfer. Both require heat to set, so this is best done before you mount your fabric on the table. In general, this method is best suited for putting dark designs on light fabric, as finding the pigments to do it in light colors on dark fabrics may prove either very expensive, or impossible to find.

    Avery, HP and Epson all make T-shirt printing kits that use your home computer printer. These can be used to make dark or colored designs from your printer that can be ironed onto your fabric. White designs are impossible, as home printers do not have white ink. I do not know the durability of the transfers, but I would not reccommend this method unless you are good at designing things on the computer. The transfer sheets are 8 1/2” X 11” and can be difficult to align properly on the fabric. Many synthetic fabrics cannot take the heat of ironing the transfers, and can melt, so do be sure of your fabric. Remember to make your design reversed, as you will be flipping it over to iron on. Wouldn’t want words to come out reversed!

    There are also tranfer pigments available in paint, pencil, crayon and marker forms, to be used with special paper (can vary by brand) to make iron on transfers. In this case, you will be drawing/painting the design in reverse by hand on the paper, which is then applied to the fabric. The same drawbacks apply to this as with the computer-printed type, as well as doing the design by hand. The papers, depending on the brand, come in 8 1/2” X 11”, 11”X17”, and poster size (sorry, don’t know the dimensions). These can be difficult to find, and are often expensive in larger sizes. I know one manufacturer of transfer pigments makes a white, but I do not know where to find it. I do not reccommend this method, as it is difficult, expensive, and gives poor results.

    Well, there you have it! There are many more methods, however I feel that the ones I have presented are the least expensive and give the best results, short of buying pre-printed felt from a casino distributor. I hope this helps some of you that have asked how to put graphics on your shiny new poker table! Have fun, and good luck!

    Trish

  100. 100 // Simon // 12.09.2004 // 9:56 PM

    I was wondering about the PERFECT PADDED RAILS. I live in Canada eh, and I tried ordering 21 feet of the padded rails and it was 70.00US which is okay, but the darn shipping is 105.55 so a total of 175.00US. That is outragous. I was wondering the rails kinda look a bit like the noodle kids use to swim, can I use that and then wrap some vynal on it? anyone try that?

  101. 101 // Michael Davis // 12.10.2004 // 2:51 PM

    The table looks great…however, I am looking for the little “side tables” that go between players that you can put drinks or food onto so that you don’t have to put it on the table itself. Cannot seem to find them any place. Any ideas anyone?

    Thanks!

  102. 102 // stange182 // 12.12.2004 // 11:41 PM

    I am going to start making the same table as show here but i wanna ake a dealer spot as well. I was going to leave a 2 foot section open without padding open to use it. I also bought a poker trays for trips you put into the table. My question for anyone is should i put my felt down and then cut a hole for the tray or try and wrap my felt around the whole then cutting the felt?

  103. 103 // Rob // 12.13.2004 // 10:53 AM

    Is pool table cloth the same as poker table cloth and if not is it suitable?

  104. 104 // jimmy // 12.14.2004 // 11:32 AM

    hey guys, i built my table using those pool noodle floats as padding then wrapped them in any vinyl of your choosing just make sure you glue the noodles to your vinyl before wrapping and they cost nothing at walmart and looks great. also carpet padding works great underneath the casino felt, you can also buy folding legs at home depot for about $17.

  105. 105 // jimmy // 12.14.2004 // 11:37 AM

    mike,side tables for $24 at kohls, stange, wrap the felt over the hole then cut it out but make sure you have some adhesive around the hole so it holds the felt.

  106. 106 // stange182 // 12.15.2004 // 1:38 PM

    i had an idea jimmy. I would already have the hole cut on. then put the felt all the way down and staple it. then were the hole is just cut an X and the tray would go right in hopefully not pulling the felt and make any creases. What do u think?

  107. 107 // TomB // 12.16.2004 // 9:22 AM

    Hello all, thanks Jeff for this site and everyone for posting it’s a BIG HELP. I am building my first table and finally decided not to go ‘all out’ on this one and make it my ‘road table’ It is 84”X40” with a 6” raceway. I want to just build a simple but decent looking rail without buying another sheet of Plywood. Was fortunate to come across a 1” think piece of ply from work used for a shipping crate,this is used for the table base. Then I got a 4x8x3/4” BC-ply for the top. I would like to try an use the pool noodle ideas for my railing. Question;How did you guys wrap the vinyl? Particularly from the top edge? Did you wrap it underneath before you tacked/screwed down the noodle? Also, did you buy a 1-piece vinyl larger than the table or piece the vinyl in sections? Thanks again for any advise. -TomB

  108. 108 // ajc // 12.21.2004 // 2:01 PM

    Wonderfull site!!! I was hoping that someone would have some suggestions for me. I purchased a table which I thought was made of plywood but it was MDF instead. The seller also misrepresented the product regarding a steel fram around the perimeter of the table. Could someone recommend a way to “sturdy” this table?

  109. 109 // TomB // 12.23.2004 // 10:11 AM

    ajc, can you return the table? That just doesn’t sound right. I am using the replacement folding table legs from Lowes and want to study them as well. When I finish my table I’ll let you know what I find. TB

  110. 110 // Mario L. // 12.26.2004 // 1:11 PM

    Hey, Thanks guys for this site, I’m almost done with my table and its coming out pretty good, thats good I found you guys as I have being looking on how to make a poker table- on E-BAY, they got people selling instruction on how to- why do that when you got sites like this, Thanks guys.

  111. 111 // David // 12.28.2004 // 3:40 PM

    Anybody have any additional pics and/or detailed instructions on constructing the railing. That seems to be the trickiest piece of all. Drop-in cupholders would be a plus also. Any useful URLs would be appreciated. My New Years resolution is to build my own table and do away with my current folding table top.

    Thanks.

  112. 112 // Big Slick // 12.30.2004 // 10:46 PM

    I came accross your website when I decided to make my own poker table. I can’t wait to get started on it!! I’m currently shopping around for supplies and was wondering about those pool noodles and how well they have worked out as a rail? if you have pics you would like to share I would love to see what they turned out looking like and or if you have pics of them being constructed would also be of great help! the rail is my main concern for now those noodle rail pics would be greatly appreciated!! I’m also still trying to decide what kind of material to use for the table top and wheather or not to put cup holders in? thanks for any help and awesome site and great looking table you have here!

  113. 113 // Bill // 01.02.2005 // 5:04 PM

    I am very grateful for the ideas presented on this post. I used to be a blackjack dealer at an Indian Reservation Casino where they build their own tables. I was pretty good friends with one of the builders and he told me that they use the same padded rails that are used on waterbeds when they build their tables. Hope this helps.

  114. 114 // TomB // 01.05.2005 // 10:11 AM

    Big Slick; I have finally figured how I will install the pool-noodle railing. If you(or anyone else)sends me an email, I will send the pics and instructions. Basically I put a slit only in the middle of the noodles and glued them end to end to create a one piece fitted rail pad. I had to make a 1-1/4” “ply ring” to use as a “backbone” for the pad railing. Then I installed the vinyl in reverse(inside first), installed the ring on the table then wrapped the vinyl around underneath. too much to explain here as you can tell.

    -TomB

  115. 115 // on line kasino // 01.09.2005 // 4:59 AM

    Wonderful work. I enjoyed read your site a lot.

    on line kasino

  116. 116 // John K // 01.09.2005 // 11:41 PM

    Hi all, I am getting ready to build my own table. I have figured out how I am going to build it.I hope my ideas will help. I am going to use two sheets of 1/2” press board. and I’ll tell you why.(cost $10 bucks EA at home depot and cheap paint will seal it). 1. to start cut both sheets in the same size oval shape. 3. to make the railing, on the second sheet draw a line 3 or 3 1/2 inches in from the outside, it even could be 4 inches in from the outside edge, all the way around THEN CUT OUT THIS 4” OVAL (idea! drill a hole on the line big enough to fit the blade of the jig saw.) (now you have an oval 4 inches smaller then the table top and a 4 inch wide oval right?) 4. screw the two solid ovals together,the smaller one dead center of the bigger one, which is now the bottom where the folding legs can be attached, -($17 home depot). 5. pad and felt the tabletop. 6. pad the 4 inch wide ovel as thick as you want with the carpet pad. (which is a great idea from this site)stretch vinyl or naugahide over the padding and staple it on the other side. now this matches the outside diameter as the table top, put it on the top of the table and screw it on from the bottom of the table top, be sure to not use screws that will go all the way through. when your done this is a 1 inch thick table and very sturdy. OK now cup holders! make a template (piece of plywood about 8 inch x 8 inch) with the right size hole saw (door knob hole maker)make a hole in the 8x8 template. now clamp it on to the arm rest where you want a cup holder( very tightly). use an exacto knife to cut the naugahide and padding in a perfect circle to expose the wood. use the hole saw to make a hole for the cup holder. staple the loose edge of the felt and then glue the cup holder in place. well this is how the table that i looked at that was $600. I’ll build one and sell it for $450 plus shipping if anyone wants one. well if you get this done before I do then let me know how it goes. P.S. POOL NOODLE! TACKY, TACKY, TACKY

  117. 117 // john K // 01.11.2005 // 11:50 AM

    Thanks Tom for the pic of the table. I can see the pool noodle does work.

  118. 118 // Pohuy // 01.14.2005 // 9:01 PM

    Very good topic.

  119. 119 // Raider Tank // 01.19.2005 // 2:45 PM

    Has anyone had there playing surface airbrushed before? I want to have something put on but I don’t want to have it affect the way the cards slide. Any info would help. Thanks guys in advance. Go Raiders!!

  120. 120 // Brad // 01.31.2005 // 10:13 PM

    I was just wondering if the railing that casino supply has is very soft. It says rubber and it just looks hard and not comfortable. Anyone with any comments please let me know.

  121. 121 // John // 02.17.2005 // 7:37 AM

    Hey guys great site, after searching everything I think I can get all the supplys here for around $175, this may seen pricey to some of you but I had to buy one huge piece of plywood for my project, at first I didnt know what I was going to do with all the extras but the I found a way to get rid of my scraps. Im custom making my table legs out of the leftovers along with a drawer for the dealer, once everything is done Ill post all the pictures on my website for everyone to check out, I even got a preatty cool idea for the drink holders for everyone. My project just started today and I worked allmost 5 hours on it, I figure 4-5 more days and I may have it finished. As far as the carpet padding goes, how thick is it.

  122. 122 // TomB // 02.22.2005 // 8:44 AM

    To all who have requested pics and instructions on the noodle rail: 1.I apologize for those who didn’t get them. 2.I’m limited with my email provider;can only send 3mb at a clip;very time consuming. 3.I also wanted to wait and see how it would hold up. There is a potential problem with this type of foam that is, it can ‘dent’ if something is left against it for a period of time. Also a problem with wrinkling in the vinyl. I will notify everyone who sent or sends requests when these issues are rectified and the pics/instructions available again. I apologize again for the delay. Thank you,

    TomB

  123. 123 // TomB // 02.22.2005 // 9:04 AM

    For everyone who requested instructions on the noodle rail: I apologize for the delay on this. My email provider only allows for 3mb sends;very time consuming for dial-up. Also, I’ve had some issues with wrinkles and dents- another reason I wanted to wait and see how it would hold up. Again, sorry for the delay and I will notify those who’ve requested or requests the instructions when I’ve updated them to deal with the above issues.

    Thank you, TomB

  124. 124 // eric // 03.12.2005 // 1:10 PM

    Great site! check out the plans at http://sidepot.com - very good plans that I built my table from and it turned out just like the pictures on this site. I have the PPR - I like the ease of installation - sidepot guy recommended a vinyl “patch” which I used and it does a good job of hiding the seam. I’m using my table for first time tonight - am interested to see if the PPR holds up ok. It’s drawback is it is not attached to the top surface - I’m debating using hot glue every couple of feet to hold it secure. If this fails, I’ll junk it($70 down the drain) and build the rail that screws to the top - wish I would have seen this site earlier regarding the better rail. I’m not mr. handyman but with good directions like I’m finding now, I feel fairly confident I can build the “real” rail. Man this table is $300 now and could go up another $80 with a new rail.

  125. 125 // Brian // 04.08.2005 // 2:39 AM

    Jeff, http://Casinosupply.com do not ship internationally anymore, do you know of anywhere else that supply perfect padded railing or equivalent?

    I may just attempt to build my own.

    Regards Brian

  126. 126 // danny // 04.21.2005 // 12:09 AM

    Go to this site and order your tables at costs bellow what you pay for materials needed, and save yourself time and effort.

    http://Pokerchipmart.com http://uspokerchips.com

  127. 127 // Jeff // 04.23.2005 // 3:09 PM

    I finally made my table, with only the rail to go til completion. I searched forever for good foam for the table padding and found a usual price of about $40.00 after shipping and handling. Instead I found 3/8” closed cell foam bed rolls that you use for camping. It’s the same foam and three rolls were more than enough to cover the table. I picked them up at Bi-mart for $5.99 each. They sell for about $11.00 at walmart, which is still cheaper than ordering a whole sheet through a company. I went with dark blue velveteen which worked great, and didn’t need to iron it, just stretched it well enough.